19th Century. First Half.

The various decorative forms of the cocked hat, in use for over a hundred years, disappeared at the beginning of the 19^th century with the introduction of a more practical, cylindrical and peaked, shako. In 1800 the shako was made of leather and was decorated with a large brass plate on the front. This proved too heavy and was changed to a lacquered felt version with the same plate. In front, above a black cockade, was a short tuft coloured according to company. White over red for the centre company, white for the grenadier and green for the light infantry companies. These coloured tufts continued, in various forms and lengths, until the introduction of the last shako. In 1811 a lighter, smaller version was introduced. This had a raised front similar to the Hungarian casquet and was the shako worn during the Waterloo campaign. Although it was withdrawn soon after the battle it became known as the Waterloo shako. With the introduction of this shako officers were directed to wear the shako in lieu of the cocked hat. There was some resistance to this directive and they were allowed to wear the hat at levees and at court for a few more years.
After Waterloo military fashions ran riot with decoration taking precedence over practicality and comfort. Foot Guards wore bearskins (the latest version of the grenadier cap) which were so high that taller sentry boxes had to be installed to accommodate the wearers. In cavalry regiments Lancers wore Polish style uniforms with square topped caps while Hussars adopted the Continental type busby. The Household Cavalry appeared in bright steel helmets with fur crests so high that they could barely be kept on the head.
Infantry regiments discarded their Waterloo shakos in 1816 for an improved ‘Prussian’ style of black felt with a glazed top which was slightly wider at the top and with a peak at the front and the back. This soon evolved into the Regency shako much wider at the top and rather bell shaped. Regimental lace, in silver or gold, decorated the top and bottom edges of this shako. It was quite heavy. As extravagance became rife so the shako, although it lost its regimental lace, soon became festooned with cords and with ridiculously long feathers. By 1844 the authorities had had enough and ordered the removal of excessive lace from the uniforms and introduced a new shako. Supposedly designed by Prince Albert, the new shako (called the ‘Albert’) was almost a reversal to the original shape. It was tall and cylindrical with a leather top and with a peak before and behind. The badge, which had evolved over the years, was the same as that worn on the bell topped shako. During the Crimean war the Albert proved impractical for active service and the round, undress, Kilmarnock forage cap was worn by most of the regiments engaged. The shako remained for full dress.